Wonsan Kalma: My journey to North Korea’s 'Benidorm'

[ad_1] Yaroslava Kiryukhina BBC Information Russian

<img sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 50vw, (min-width: 1008px) 66vw, 96vw" srcset="https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/240/cpsprodpb/dd1b/live/03aa4310-7eac-11f0-a5e2-236e16f99597.jpg.webp 240w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/320/cpsprodpb/dd1b/live/03aa4310-7eac-11f0-a5e2-236e16f99597.jpg.webp 320w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/480/cpsprodpb/dd1b/live/03aa4310-7eac-11f0-a5e2-236e16f99597.jpg.webp 480w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/640/cpsprodpb/dd1b/live/03aa4310-7eac-11f0-a5e2-236e16f99597.jpg.webp 640w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/800/cpsprodpb/dd1b/live/03aa4310-7eac-11f0-a5e2-236e16f99597.jpg.webp 800w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1024/cpsprodpb/dd1b/live/03aa4310-7eac-11f0-a5e2-236e16f99597.jpg.webp 1024w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1536/cpsprodpb/dd1b/live/03aa4310-7eac-11f0-a5e2-236e16f99597.jpg.webp 1536w" src="https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/480/cpsprodpb/dd1b/live/03aa4310-7eac-11f0-a5e2-236e16f99597.jpg.webp" loading="eager" alt="Anastasia Samsonova Anastasia Samsonova, with blonde hair and a multi-coloured swimsuit, relaxing on a sun lounger on a deserted beach at Wonsan Kalma" class="sc-d1200759-0 dvfjxj"/> Anastasia Samsonova Anastasia Samsonova was among the many first group of vacationers to go to Wonsan Kalma's seashores

It was the safety guards accompanying Anastasia Samsonova's group that prompt this wasn't a typical seashore vacation.

In July, the 33-year-old human sources employee was one of many first vacationers to remain at a brand new vacation resort in North Korea, a rustic largely closed to the skin world.

Set in an unique space on the east coast the place chief Kim Jong Un spent a lot of his youth, the Wonsan Kalma Coastal Vacationer Zone opened on 1 July.

Constructed close to a missile testing web site, the resort options accommodations, eating places, purchasing malls and a water park, based on state media.

However whereas it was initially billed as being open to worldwide vacationers, to this point solely Russians, coming into in teams and organised by accredited journey businesses, have been allowed in.

<img sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 50vw, (min-width: 1008px) 66vw, 96vw" srcset="https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/240/cpsprodpb/278e/live/6431f440-7c62-11f0-83cc-c5da98c419b8.jpg.webp 240w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/320/cpsprodpb/278e/live/6431f440-7c62-11f0-83cc-c5da98c419b8.jpg.webp 320w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/480/cpsprodpb/278e/live/6431f440-7c62-11f0-83cc-c5da98c419b8.jpg.webp 480w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/640/cpsprodpb/278e/live/6431f440-7c62-11f0-83cc-c5da98c419b8.jpg.webp 640w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/800/cpsprodpb/278e/live/6431f440-7c62-11f0-83cc-c5da98c419b8.jpg.webp 800w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1024/cpsprodpb/278e/live/6431f440-7c62-11f0-83cc-c5da98c419b8.jpg.webp 1024w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1536/cpsprodpb/278e/live/6431f440-7c62-11f0-83cc-c5da98c419b8.jpg.webp 1536w" src="https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/480/cpsprodpb/278e/live/6431f440-7c62-11f0-83cc-c5da98c419b8.jpg.webp" loading="lazy" alt="KCNA A Korean Central News Agency photo showing an aerial view of the Wonsan Kalma Coastal Tourist Zone, with dozens of buildings, an empty road and many beach umbrellas on the beachfront" class="sc-d1200759-0 dvfjxj"/> KCNA The resort options accommodations, eating places, purchasing malls and a water park, based on state media

Anastasia travelled there final month with 14 different folks. The go to was tightly managed, with guides and guards accompanying them and a hard and fast itinerary that might not be diverged from with out permission from North Korean authorities.

She says the guides instructed her the guards have been wanted to "stop conditions the place we interacted with locals and startled them".

"After we walked down the road, they [North Koreans] checked out us with nice shock as a result of the nation has been closed for a really very long time," says Anastasia.

BBC Information Russian received in touch together with her after looking out the geotags of individuals on social media who had travelled to the resort, independently of any journey company or media outlet.

No scramble for sunloungers

Anastasia says her group was additionally instructed to not {photograph} building websites and was anticipated to not put on revealing garments.

But regardless of the restrictions, she says she "loved a trip with out folks" on almost-empty seashores with white sand.

"Every single day the [beach] was cleaned and levelled completely. Every thing was immaculate," she says.

"The loungers have been completely new, every part spotless. The doorway to the ocean was very mild, so sure, it actually was an excellent seashore."

<img sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 50vw, (min-width: 1008px) 66vw, 96vw" srcset="https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/240/cpsprodpb/895f/live/9bc4a350-7eae-11f0-a5e2-236e16f99597.jpg.webp 240w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/320/cpsprodpb/895f/live/9bc4a350-7eae-11f0-a5e2-236e16f99597.jpg.webp 320w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/480/cpsprodpb/895f/live/9bc4a350-7eae-11f0-a5e2-236e16f99597.jpg.webp 480w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/640/cpsprodpb/895f/live/9bc4a350-7eae-11f0-a5e2-236e16f99597.jpg.webp 640w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/800/cpsprodpb/895f/live/9bc4a350-7eae-11f0-a5e2-236e16f99597.jpg.webp 800w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1024/cpsprodpb/895f/live/9bc4a350-7eae-11f0-a5e2-236e16f99597.jpg.webp 1024w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1536/cpsprodpb/895f/live/9bc4a350-7eae-11f0-a5e2-236e16f99597.jpg.webp 1536w" src="https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/480/cpsprodpb/895f/live/9bc4a350-7eae-11f0-a5e2-236e16f99597.jpg.webp" loading="lazy" alt="Anastasia Samsonova Anastasia Samsonova at the Wonsan Kalma beach resort" class="sc-d1200759-0 dvfjxj"/> Anastasia Samsonova Anastasia mentioned the seashores have been "immaculate" and largely abandoned

Because the Covid pandemic, worldwide tourism into North Korea had been on pause to forestall the unfold of the virus.

However final yr, the republic started permitting Russian vacationers to go to once more.

In February, it additionally began receiving vacationers from the West, together with Australia, France, Germany and the UK, although it abruptly halted this weeks later, with out saying why.

Wonsan Kalma has been touted as a key a part of Kim's ambitions to spice up tourism within the nation.

It's mentioned to have drawn inspiration from Spain's tourism hotspot Benidorm, the place a North Korean delegation was despatched on a fact-finding mission in 2017.

However particulars of the way it was constructed have been shrouded in secrecy, and human rights teams have criticised the alleged harsh remedy of employees.

Weeks after it opened, North Korea introduced that foreigners have been "quickly" not allowed to go to - besides vacationers from Russia, an ally of the republic.

To date, two Russian tour teams have visited the resort, with one other at present there.

<img sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 50vw, (min-width: 1008px) 66vw, 96vw" srcset="https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/240/cpsprodpb/fc6c/live/ea9d88b0-777f-11f0-a975-cb151ca452f4.jpg.webp 240w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/320/cpsprodpb/fc6c/live/ea9d88b0-777f-11f0-a975-cb151ca452f4.jpg.webp 320w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/480/cpsprodpb/fc6c/live/ea9d88b0-777f-11f0-a975-cb151ca452f4.jpg.webp 480w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/640/cpsprodpb/fc6c/live/ea9d88b0-777f-11f0-a975-cb151ca452f4.jpg.webp 640w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/800/cpsprodpb/fc6c/live/ea9d88b0-777f-11f0-a975-cb151ca452f4.jpg.webp 800w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1024/cpsprodpb/fc6c/live/ea9d88b0-777f-11f0-a975-cb151ca452f4.jpg.webp 1024w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1536/cpsprodpb/fc6c/live/ea9d88b0-777f-11f0-a975-cb151ca452f4.jpg.webp 1536w" src="https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/480/cpsprodpb/fc6c/live/ea9d88b0-777f-11f0-a975-cb151ca452f4.jpg.webp" loading="lazy" alt="Anastasia Samsonova Three images: a North Korean missile model outdoors; tourist Anastasia in a café with a North Korean newspaper and a missile figurine, with coffee and pastries on the table; and the last image showing another missile figurine." class="sc-d1200759-0 dvfjxj"/> Anastasia Samsonova North Korean rocket fashions value round $40 every

Every week-long journey from Russia to North Korea, together with three days on the Wonsan Kalma resort, prices $1,800 (£1,300) - 60% greater than the common month-to-month wage in Russia.

Some adverts for the journey even reference the close by missile testing web site, describing it as a "distinctive" trip spot.

Anastasia says no missiles have been launched whereas she was there, however toy rockets have been being bought close by for $40 (£30).

Describing a typical day whereas on her journey, Anastasia says the group would have breakfast at 08:00 when plenty of actions have been deliberate and 09:30 on a extra relaxed day.

When it comes to the meals they got, there was "plenty of meat", usually in candy and bitter sauce, and a dish involving finely-chopped cabbage and carrots in sauce.

She says a 500ml bottle of beer was very low-cost, costing about 60 cents on the seashore, whereas the memento of alternative for vacationers was North Korean Olympic clothes.

One other vacationer, Daria, writing on Instagram, described the resort as "very uncooked" and "not the sort of trip Russian vacationers are used to".

"However when you're bored with Asia, Turkey, and so forth., and wish one thing unique — that is it," she added.

<img sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 50vw, (min-width: 1008px) 66vw, 96vw" srcset="https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/240/cpsprodpb/d68f/live/51fde0f0-7c61-11f0-ab3e-bd52082cd0ae.jpg.webp 240w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/320/cpsprodpb/d68f/live/51fde0f0-7c61-11f0-ab3e-bd52082cd0ae.jpg.webp 320w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/480/cpsprodpb/d68f/live/51fde0f0-7c61-11f0-ab3e-bd52082cd0ae.jpg.webp 480w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/640/cpsprodpb/d68f/live/51fde0f0-7c61-11f0-ab3e-bd52082cd0ae.jpg.webp 640w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/800/cpsprodpb/d68f/live/51fde0f0-7c61-11f0-ab3e-bd52082cd0ae.jpg.webp 800w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1024/cpsprodpb/d68f/live/51fde0f0-7c61-11f0-ab3e-bd52082cd0ae.jpg.webp 1024w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1536/cpsprodpb/d68f/live/51fde0f0-7c61-11f0-ab3e-bd52082cd0ae.jpg.webp 1536w" src="https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/480/cpsprodpb/d68f/live/51fde0f0-7c61-11f0-ab3e-bd52082cd0ae.jpg.webp" loading="lazy" alt="Vostok Intur A screengrab of an advert from a Russian tourism agency promoting the resort. It says a trip cost around $1,800. " class="sc-d1200759-0 dvfjxj"/> Vostok Intur Every week's tour of North Korea prices a Russian traveller round $1,800 (£1,300)

Nonetheless, there's uncertainty over when the subsequent Russian vacationers can be allowed into Wonsan Kalma.

The journey company which organised the primary three journeys to the resort, Vostok Intur, mentioned there was excessive curiosity in potential excursions in September, however North Korean authorities had but to comply with them.

Initially, excursions have been marketed on-line by Russian journey businesses for mid-September, however these have been later eliminated.

It isn't simply Russians who face difficulties attending to Wonsan Kalma.

Even residents of China, which borders North Korea and is its predominant ally and financial companion, are having difficulties accessing the resort, based on Andrei Lankov, an skilled in North Korea-Russia relations and a professor at Kookmin College in Seoul.

He says Pyongyang intentionally limits the variety of vacationers and intently controls their actions, partially so North Koreans will not evaluate themselves unfavourably to richer foreigners.

"Strange folks may start to surprise, 'How is it that even with out our nice chief, or his son or daughter, they appear to stay so effectively?'", Lankov says.

For that cause, North Korea has concluded it is largely higher to not have too many foreigners coming into the nation, he provides.

<img sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 50vw, (min-width: 1008px) 66vw, 96vw" srcset="https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/240/cpsprodpb/17f9/live/b9a5a270-7c60-11f0-a34f-318be3fb0481.jpg.webp 240w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/320/cpsprodpb/17f9/live/b9a5a270-7c60-11f0-a34f-318be3fb0481.jpg.webp 320w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/480/cpsprodpb/17f9/live/b9a5a270-7c60-11f0-a34f-318be3fb0481.jpg.webp 480w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/640/cpsprodpb/17f9/live/b9a5a270-7c60-11f0-a34f-318be3fb0481.jpg.webp 640w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/800/cpsprodpb/17f9/live/b9a5a270-7c60-11f0-a34f-318be3fb0481.jpg.webp 800w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1024/cpsprodpb/17f9/live/b9a5a270-7c60-11f0-a34f-318be3fb0481.jpg.webp 1024w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1536/cpsprodpb/17f9/live/b9a5a270-7c60-11f0-a34f-318be3fb0481.jpg.webp 1536w" src="https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/480/cpsprodpb/17f9/live/b9a5a270-7c60-11f0-a34f-318be3fb0481.jpg.webp" loading="lazy" alt="AFP Domestic tourists watch as a man uses a slide into a swimming pool at the Myongsasimni Water Park in the Wonsan Kalma Coastal Tourist Area in Wonsan, North Korea's Kangwon Province." class="sc-d1200759-0 dvfjxj"/> AFP The resort includes a water park, however Anastasia's group didn't get to go to it

With journey restrictions into North Korea easing, tourism from Russia has been rising, although it stays modest in contrast with different locations.

In 2024, about 1,500 Russians travelled to North Korea for tourism, based on Russia's Federal Safety Service border guards.

In distinction, greater than 6.7 million visited Turkey and virtually 1.9 million went to China.

Nonetheless, within the second quarter of 2025, 1,673 Russians entered North Korea as vacationers – a degree final seen in 2010, earlier than vacationer restrictions have been launched.

Wonsan Kalma is seen as key to reviving North Korea's ailing financial fortunes, nevertheless it's not been with out controversy.

Because the resort started building in 2018, human rights teams have protested the alleged mistreatment of its employees. They level to studies of individuals being pressured to work lengthy hours to complete the large challenge below harsh situations and insufficient compensation.

The BBC has approached the North Korean embassy in London for remark.

<img sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 50vw, (min-width: 1008px) 66vw, 96vw" srcset="https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/240/cpsprodpb/c91e/live/95ae4230-7780-11f0-8071-1788c7e8ae0e.jpg.webp 240w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/320/cpsprodpb/c91e/live/95ae4230-7780-11f0-8071-1788c7e8ae0e.jpg.webp 320w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/480/cpsprodpb/c91e/live/95ae4230-7780-11f0-8071-1788c7e8ae0e.jpg.webp 480w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/640/cpsprodpb/c91e/live/95ae4230-7780-11f0-8071-1788c7e8ae0e.jpg.webp 640w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/800/cpsprodpb/c91e/live/95ae4230-7780-11f0-8071-1788c7e8ae0e.jpg.webp 800w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1024/cpsprodpb/c91e/live/95ae4230-7780-11f0-8071-1788c7e8ae0e.jpg.webp 1024w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1536/cpsprodpb/c91e/live/95ae4230-7780-11f0-8071-1788c7e8ae0e.jpg.webp 1536w" src="https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/480/cpsprodpb/c91e/live/95ae4230-7780-11f0-8071-1788c7e8ae0e.jpg.webp" loading="lazy" alt="Anastasia Samsonova A hotel at the Wonsan Kalma resort" class="sc-d1200759-0 dvfjxj"/> Anastasia Samsonova There's a lengthy promenade that traces the entrance of the accommodations on the resort

Regardless of the challenges of attending to Wonsan Kalma, and the restrictions on what Russian vacationers can do once they arrive in North Korea, Anastasia says she hopes to return again subsequent yr.

"We're really fascinated by gathering the entire group subsequent yr to go to the identical place.

"I am unsure if it'll work out, however I've heard there's additionally a ski resort close to Wonsan Kalma. So, possibly in the future I am going to go to that resort too."

<img sizes="(min-width: 1280px) 50vw, (min-width: 1008px) 66vw, 96vw" srcset="https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/240/cpsprodpb/281c/live/94926760-777f-11f0-8071-1788c7e8ae0e.jpg.webp 240w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/320/cpsprodpb/281c/live/94926760-777f-11f0-8071-1788c7e8ae0e.jpg.webp 320w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/480/cpsprodpb/281c/live/94926760-777f-11f0-8071-1788c7e8ae0e.jpg.webp 480w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/640/cpsprodpb/281c/live/94926760-777f-11f0-8071-1788c7e8ae0e.jpg.webp 640w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/800/cpsprodpb/281c/live/94926760-777f-11f0-8071-1788c7e8ae0e.jpg.webp 800w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1024/cpsprodpb/281c/live/94926760-777f-11f0-8071-1788c7e8ae0e.jpg.webp 1024w,https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1536/cpsprodpb/281c/live/94926760-777f-11f0-8071-1788c7e8ae0e.jpg.webp 1536w" src="https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/480/cpsprodpb/281c/live/94926760-777f-11f0-8071-1788c7e8ae0e.jpg.webp" loading="lazy" alt="Anastasia Samsonova Empty sandy beach and hotels at the Wonsan-Kalma resort" class="sc-d1200759-0 dvfjxj"/> Anastasia Samsonova Anastasia says the seashores have been "immaculate" and just about abandoned more often than not