
A person performs an accordion as folks collect at a neighborhood tavern, often known as shabeen, in Semonkong.
MARCO LONGARI/AFP
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MARCO LONGARI/AFP
MASERU, Lesotho — Puseletso Seema is musical royalty within the tiny African mountain kingdom of Lesotho, the place she’s often known as “the Queen of Famo” -– a preferred style of pastoral accordion music beloved by the nation’s folks, the Basotho.
However for all her fame, she by no means acquired wealthy, and the 77-year-old grandmother’s residing situations as of late are removed from regal.
She resides in a small, run-down dwelling alongside a dusty street within the rural areas outdoors the capital, the place small boys experience donkeys below the shadows of the mountains, and shepherds wrapped in colourful, patterned blankets watch over flocks of sheep.
It is winter, with strikingly clear blue skies and snow on the distant mountain peaks. Seema does not have cash for electrical energy and isn’t properly, coughing lots as she reminisces about turning into the primary lady to interrupt right into a music trade that was as soon as strictly the protect of males.

Puseletso Seema, recognized in Lesotho because the ‘Queen of Famo,’ throughout an interview at her dwelling.
Kate Bartlett/NPR
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Kate Bartlett/NPR
“Famo music is a music that’s like jazz in different nations, it is the style most recognized in Lesotho,” she explains. “It is a music that’s emotionally linked, you possibly can specific your happiness, unhappiness, all of your emotions.”
Journalist Motsamai Mokotjo, who has written on the subject, explains famo this fashion: “In essence it is engraved in people legislation, you already know, it is poetry fused with the accordion.”
“It speaks to the historical past of Basotho and the whole lot that is occurring within the nation. It is extra like what folks in America would say is hip hop, it is a type of expression,” he provides.
Wayfarers’ Hymns
Lesotho is among the world’s poorest nations, and Seema grew up with little or no. She had no education and was put to work by her household as a baby taking care of the livestock. Normally it was boys who labored as shepherds, however Seema’s mother and father did not have a son. Nonetheless, she held her personal.
“After I was within the fields I’d typically combat with a number of the herdboys,” she laughs. “And I began singing this music after I was a shepherd.”
Famo began as a rural music amongst Lesotho’s shepherds, however migrated to the city areas together with the Basotho who went to work in South Africa’s mines within the twentieth century.

A busking famo musician on the streets of Maseru, Lesotho.
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Kate Bartlett/NPR
“It was there the place they have been launched to an accordion,” says Mpho Malikeng, a Maseru musician and artist who’s an skilled on famo. “That’s the major instrument of famo music.”
Lesotho is completely surrounded by South Africa, whose mineral wealth and huge gold deposits made it a middle of mining for many years. After an extended day down the shafts, mineworkers would collect at rowdy makeshift pubs known as shebeens, and play famo.
Seema, too, went to try to make her fortune in Johannesburg, typically dubbed “egoli” or town of gold. Not as a miner, however a performer for the miners – simply as when she was a herder, a lady getting into a person’s world.

Portrait of a neighborhood shepherd together with his canines wrapped in a blanket within the mountains of Lesotho, Africa.
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